Dryer Not Heating, No Heat at Exhaust — no heat at exhaust

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Check 1

   Empty the dryer, select a heated timed or normal dry cycle specified for the model, and run a brief supervised test. Observe the drum and the outside exhaust hood from a safe position; do not reach into the drum or touch the heater, duct, or hot metal.

   Expected result: The exhaust becomes warm at some point, remains cool while the drum runs, or there is no normal air movement at the outside hood.

   Next step: Record the result and continue with the cycle, dryer-type, lint, vent, and supply checks. Stop immediately for smoke, burning odor, sparking, unusual heat, or a cord or duct that looks damaged.

   Why this matters

   Why: Warmth confirms that the heating system is producing at least some heat; a continuously cool exhaust suggests a setting, supply, heating, or control problem, while absent airflow makes an exhaust restriction or disconnected duct more likely.

2. Check 2

   Check the selected cycle, temperature option, Eco or energy-saving option, and any Air Only, Fluff, Cool Down, or no-heat indicator against the exact owner manual. Confirm the door is fully closed and the cycle has actually started.

   Expected result: A no-heat cycle or low-heat option was selected, or a heated cycle is selected correctly but the exhaust remains cool.

   Next step: Run one supervised test on the model's heated cycle. If the correct cycle still produces no heat, do not keep changing settings at random; continue to the supply and airflow checks.

   Why this matters

   Why: A no-heat setting can fully explain a cool exhaust; correct settings with no heat shift the investigation toward power or gas supply, airflow, or the heating system.

3. Check 3

   Identify whether the dryer is conventional vented electric, vented gas, or ventless heat pump, using the model label and manual. Look for an actual outside exhaust termination before treating no heat at an exhaust as a vent problem.

   Expected result: A vented model has a duct and outside hood, a gas model has a gas supply, or the unit is ventless or heat pump with no outside exhaust.

   Next step: For a ventless model, use its manual's air path, filter, heat exchanger, and condensate checks instead of testing an outside hood. For a vented model, continue with the lint, hood, duct, and supply checks below.

   Why this matters

   Why: Heat pump dryers use a closed-loop air path and do not release drying air through a home's exterior vent. Vented electric and gas dryers use different heat sources and supply checks.

4. Check 4

   Turn the dryer off and clean the lint screen or filter as the manual directs. Inspect the filter slot, the visible rear duct connection, and the outside hood for lint, crushed sections, a closed flap, nesting, or another obvious obstruction; do not reach deep into a duct or cabinet.

   Expected result: The screen is coated or blocked, the rear hose is kinked or crushed, lint is visible at the hood, the hood flap cannot open, or these areas are clear.

   Next step: Correct only a visible routing or lint issue that can be handled without moving a connected gas appliance or opening the cabinet. Arrange professional vent cleaning for a long or inaccessible duct, then retest once.

   Why this matters

   Why: Restricted lint or exhaust paths reduce airflow and can extend drying or contribute to heat buildup. Clear external evidence makes an internal heater or supply issue more likely, but does not prove it.

5. Check 5

   With the dryer off, observe the outside hood during one supervised heated-cycle test and compare the airflow with the dryer running empty. Use the model's built-in vent test if it has one; do not disconnect the duct unless the exact manual permits it and the appliance is safely isolated.

   Expected result: Airflow is strong and the heater remains cold, airflow is weak or absent, or heat and airflow improve only when the model's approved vent test reports a clear path.

   Next step: Stop using the dryer until a weak or absent exhaust path is cleared or professionally inspected. If airflow is normal but heat is absent, continue with the correct power or gas supply check and then service.

   Why this matters

   Why: Strong airflow with no heat points away from a simple exhaust blockage and toward cycle, supply, heating, or control causes. Weak airflow points toward the duct or outside hood and can be a fire concern.

6. Check 6

   For an electric dryer, with the dryer switched off, check the dedicated dryer circuit at the household panel for a partially tripped breaker and reset it only once according to the panel instructions. Do not remove the power-cord cover or inspect the terminal block yourself.

   Expected result: The breaker was visibly or partially tripped and heat returns, or the breaker was normal and the dryer still tumbles without heat.

   Next step: If the breaker trips again, leave it off and call a qualified electrician or appliance technician. If it stays on but no heat returns, do not test voltage or open the dryer; arrange appliance service.

   Why this matters

   Why: Electric dryers can run the motor while lacking the portion of the supply used by the heater. A normal or repeatedly tripping breaker points to a supply or appliance fault rather than a setting issue.

7. Check 7

   For a gas dryer, check only that the external supply valve is open as shown in the model instructions, and do so only when there is no gas odor, hissing, or visible damage. Do not light a burner or remove a burner panel.

   Expected result: The supply valve was closed, the valve is open but exhaust remains cold, or there is a gas odor, hissing, or damaged connector.

   Next step: If the valve was closed, open it only as the manual permits and run one supervised test. For persistent no heat, gas odor, hissing, or damage, stop using the dryer, leave the valve off if safe, leave the area if odor is strong, and obtain qualified help.

   Why this matters

   Why: A closed gas valve can allow the drum to turn without heat. An open valve with no heat requires diagnosis of ignition, burner, controls, or airflow; gas odor or a damaged connector is an immediate stop.

8. Check 8

   Inspect the accessible plug, outlet face, power cord, gas connector, and rear duct without removing covers or moving a heavy or gas-connected dryer. Look for scorching, melted plastic, fraying, looseness, a crushed hose, or a connector under strain.

   Expected result: A cord, outlet, connector, or duct is damaged or hot, or all visible connections look intact while heat remains absent.

   Next step: Stop and isolate the appliance only from a safe location for any damage, odor, heat, or gas concern. If connections look sound but no heat returns, arrange qualified appliance service rather than opening panels.

   Why this matters

   Why: Visible electrical or gas damage can create a fire, shock, or leak hazard and is not a heating adjustment. Intact external connections leave an internal heater, igniter, thermal fuse, thermostat, sensor, or control fault possible.

9. Check 9

   If the correct cycle, airflow path, lint screen, supply, and visible connections are normal, stop testing and give the technician the model, dryer type, cycle used, exhaust airflow result, whether the drum turns, and any display code or safety symptom.

   Expected result: The dryer still tumbles but exhaust heat is absent after the safe checks, or it stops, trips, overheats, or shows a fault message.

   Next step: Leave the dryer off and arrange qualified appliance service. Do not bypass a fuse or thermostat, test live voltage, keep resetting a breaker, or continue running loads to see whether heat returns.

   Why this matters

   Why: An internal heating element, burner or igniter, thermal fuse, thermostat, sensor, wiring, or control problem is possible and cannot be confirmed safely from the outside.