Dishwasher not draining (cycle reaches drain)

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Check 1

   Cancel or stop the cycle, disconnect power at the breaker or an accessible disconnect, and close the dishwasher water-supply valve if you need to reach inside, remove standing water, or inspect an under-sink connection; keep towels and a shallow container ready.

   Expected result: The tub is full but there is no leak, or water is leaking, wiring is wet or damaged, a burning odor is present, the breaker trips, or the door or tub is damaged.

   Next step: For a leak near electrical parts, burning odor, damaged wiring, or repeated breaker trip, leave power off and arrange qualified appliance service. Otherwise remove only accessible standing water with a cup, sponge, or hand pump and continue with the model manual; never use drain cleaner.

   Why this matters

   Why: A full tub permits a controlled inspection after power is isolated. Leaks, heat, damaged wiring, or repeated breaker trips create electrical, water-damage, or fire risk and are not routine draining checks.

2. Check 2

   Confirm whether the water covers the tub floor or is only recessed in the filter or sump area, and compare the level with the dishwasher’s owner manual; note whether the cycle reaches drain and then ends, pauses, or continues humming.

   Expected result: Only a small amount remains in the documented filter area, the tub floor is covered, the water is near the door, or the machine stops or pauses during the drain call.

   Next step: If the level is a normal sump amount, do not disassemble the drain system. If the tub is full, continue only after power isolation with filter and accessible-path checks; save any display code and the timing for service.

   Why this matters

   Why: A small model-allowed sump level may be normal. Water across the tub or near the door supports incomplete drainage; a pause without pump engagement keeps door-latch, electrical, or control causes in consideration, while continued humming keeps a flow restriction or pump obstruction in consideration.

3. Check 3

   Following the model manual, remove and clean the accessible filter or screen with water and a soft brush, then inspect the visible sump area for food, labels, seeds, bones, toothpicks, or glass; wear gloves and do not force or remove a pump cover unless the manual clearly allows it.

   Expected result: The filter is coated or blocked, debris is visible in the sump, a sharp object or glass is present, the filter was missing or improperly seated, or the area looks clear.

   Next step: Remove only loose, reachable debris without reaching into an unseen impeller. Reinstall the filter exactly as documented, restore power, and run the model’s short test or drain function once. If water remains, power off again and continue with the external drain-path check; do not use chemicals.

   Why this matters

   Why: Food debris or an improperly seated filter can restrict the pump inlet or allow debris into it. Sharp hard debris may jam or damage an impeller. A clear filter and sump make the hose, air gap, downstream plumbing, pump, wiring, or control more likely.

4. Check 4

   Inspect the visible drain hose under the sink or behind an accessible toe area for a kink, crush point, sag, disconnection, or a routing change; confirm the documented high loop or air-gap arrangement without pulling the appliance out or cutting the hose.

   Expected result: The hose is kinked, sagging below the drain connection, disconnected, blocked at the end, routed without the required high loop, or appears correctly routed.

   Next step: Correct only an obvious loose routing issue when the installation instructions support it and power remains off; do not detach a pressurized or inaccessible connection. If the hose is blocked, damaged, or inaccessible, arrange service rather than forcing sharp tools or compressed air through it.

   Why this matters

   Why: A kink, low loop, disconnection, or blockage can stop drainage or allow wastewater to return. Correct routing depends on the installation and local plumbing arrangement; a visually correct hose does not rule out an internal restriction.

5. Check 5

   If present, inspect the air gap on the sink or the dishwasher connection at the garbage disposer and sink tailpiece; clean the air-gap cap and visible passage according to its instructions, never put hands into the disposer, and check whether the disposer was recently replaced.

   Expected result: The air gap overflows, the cap or hose passage has debris, the sink or disposer is slow, the disposer inlet still has a knockout plug after recent installation, or the downstream path looks clear.

   Next step: Clean only the accessible air-gap parts and clear a sink blockage using normal sink-safe methods. Do not reach into the disposer, remove a disposer plug unless its installation instructions and safe access support it, or disconnect a hidden hose. Run one short drain test; if water remains, arrange service.

   Why this matters

   Why: Air-gap overflow and sink or disposer restriction point downstream of the dishwasher outlet. A retained disposer knockout plug can block a newly connected dishwasher. A clear downstream path makes the internal pump, hose, wiring, or control more likely.

6. Check 6

   During one drain test from a dry, safe position, listen and watch the outlet or air gap without touching the appliance; note a steady pump hum, grinding, no pump sound, a short burst of flow, or water that drains and then returns.

   Expected result: There is strong flow, a hum with no flow, grinding, no pump sound while the cycle reaches drain, a brief flow followed by standing water, or backflow from the sink or air gap.

   Next step: Stop testing for grinding, no flow, leaks, or repeated backflow and power off. Arrange qualified service for pump, motor, wiring, latch, control, internal hose, or plumbing diagnosis; do not remove a pump, apply live voltage, or keep cycling a jammed unit.

   Why this matters

   Why: Strong flow with residual water keeps a level or model-specific issue in consideration. Humming without flow supports an obstruction or pump problem; grinding supports hard debris; no sound keeps electrical, latch, pump, or control causes in consideration; brief flow or backflow supports a partial restriction or downstream routing problem.

7. Check 7

   Record the dishwasher model, cycle and drain timing, water level, pump sound, filter and sump findings, hose and air-gap observations, recent disposer or plumbing work, detergent used, error codes, leaks, and any prior repair before arranging service.

   Expected result: The problem began after an installation or disposer change, followed repeated filter cleaning, occurs intermittently, or has no obvious change or trigger.

   Next step: Provide the record and model-specific manual to a qualified appliance technician. Request a complete drain-path and electrical/control diagnosis before ordering a pump, motor, valve, or control board; do not keep restarting a full or leaking dishwasher.

   Why this matters

   Why: A post-installation onset raises hose routing, high-loop, air-gap, disposer knockout, and connection issues. Recurrence after cleaning raises an internal restriction, failing pump, wiring, latch, or control issue. Intermittent behavior may require the timing and sound log to reproduce safely.