How to fix a clogged faucet: Check the aerator and water supply safely

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Check 1

   Run this faucet briefly and compare its flow with another faucet, then compare the hot and cold positions. Do not remove parts yet; note whether the stream is weak, splashing, intermittent, or completely absent.

   Expected result: Only this faucet is restricted, only hot or cold is restricted, several indoor faucets are restricted, or outside fixtures are restricted too.

   Next step: For one faucet, inspect the aerator. For hot-only or whole-home symptoms, check only accessible valves and leaks and arrange qualified plumbing help if the cause is not obvious.

   Stop if: Stop if water is leaking, the cabinet is wet, a connection is damaged, or flow suddenly changes at multiple fixtures.

   Why this matters

   Why: One-faucet restriction points toward a local aerator or faucet path. Hot-only restriction points toward hot-water equipment or plumbing. Reduced flow across fixtures suggests a valve, filter, leak, corroded pipe, pressure, or supply issue rather than one clogged spout screen.

2. Check 2

   With the faucet off, inspect the end of the spout for a visible or recessed aerator and look for scale, rust, or loose particles. Cover the sink drain before touching it, and take a picture of the assembled parts if removal is appropriate.

   Expected result: The screen is visibly scaled or dirty, the aerator is recessed, or there is no accessible screen and the spout appears damaged or blocked.

   Next step: If the aerator can be removed by hand or with a finish-protected gentle tool, continue to cleaning. If it is seized, corroded, or would require force, stop and call a qualified plumber.

   Stop if: Stop if the spout or threads begin to deform, the fitting will not turn with gentle force, or removal would require disconnecting plumbing.

   Why this matters

   Why: Visible buildup supports a local aerator cleaning. A recessed design needs the correct faucet key or model procedure. A damaged spout or inaccessible blockage is not a reason to pry or drill the faucet.

3. Check 3

   Separate the accessible aerator only after photographing its order. Soak the pieces in white vinegar to loosen mineral buildup, brush the screen gently, and rinse every part under clean running water; do not use a hard tool that can damage the mesh.

   Expected result: Scale or debris releases and the screen openings become visibly clear, or the screen remains damaged, blocked, or badly corroded.

   Next step: Reassemble the pieces in the photographed order and reinstall by hand. If the screen is damaged or cannot be cleaned without force, keep the faucet off as needed and arrange plumbing help or identify the exact faucet model before selecting a replacement.

   Stop if: Stop if parts cannot be identified, the screen breaks, or the cleaning would require opening the faucet body or supply lines.

   Why this matters

   Why: A clear, intact screen can explain a local flow restriction. A torn, crushed, missing, or heavily corroded screen may need a correctly matched replacement, while buildup that will not release may indicate a wider water-quality or pipe issue.

4. Check 4

   Reassemble the aerator in its original order and screw it back onto the spout by hand. Open the faucet slowly while watching the stream and the joint around the aerator; tighten gently only if the joint seeps.

   Expected result: The flow is even and improved with no spray or leak, or the flow remains weak or water leaks around the fitting.

   Next step: If flow is normal, monitor it. If it remains weak, briefly compare with the aerator removed only if the faucet can discharge safely into the basin; if it leaks or sprays, turn the faucet off and arrange service.

   Stop if: Stop immediately for a leak that does not stop when the faucet is closed, damaged threads, uncontrolled spray, or water reaching electrical equipment.

   Why this matters

   Why: Improved flow without leakage supports the aerator as the blockage. Persistent weak flow means the restriction may be upstream or the supply may be low; a leak means the screen, washer, or threads are not seated correctly or are damaged.

5. Check 5

   If the aerator is clean but flow is still restricted, inspect only normally accessible shutoff valves, under-sink connections, and nearby surfaces for a valve that is not fully open, dampness, puddling, corrosion, or a running-water sound. Do not disconnect a supply line or adjust a pressure-reducing valve.

   Expected result: The local valve is visibly closed or partly closed, there is a leak or damp connection, or all accessible valves and connections look normal while other fixtures are also weak.

   Next step: Open only a clearly identified faucet shutoff valve if it turns normally and there is no leak; otherwise leave it alone. Call a qualified plumber or notify the property manager for leaks, whole-home symptoms, or any valve/pipe that needs repair.

   Stop if: Stop for a leaking or seized valve, corroded pipe, wet electrical equipment, no water at all, or any need to cut pipe, remove a supply line, or adjust a PRV.

   Why this matters

   Why: A partly closed valve can restrict one faucet; a leak or wet connection needs prompt plumbing attention. Normal local connections with whole-home low flow point beyond the faucet to a filter, PRV, pipe corrosion, or water-service issue.