Drafty Door — seal, weatherstripping

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Check 1

   Close and latch the door on a calm day, then inspect the full perimeter for visible daylight, a loose seal, cracked sealant, dust tracks, or a place where the door does not meet its stops.

   Expected result: The gap is at the hinge or latch side, along the top, at the bottom, or behind the trim rather than at the moving edge.

   Next step: Mark the leaking section and continue with the matching seal or alignment check instead of replacing every component at once.

   Why this matters

   Why: The leak location identifies whether to correct door fit, replace weatherstripping, address the sweep, or air-seal a stationary frame gap.

2. Check 2

   Check the door's accessible hinges, knob, strike area, and stops for looseness or misalignment. Tighten only loose visible fasteners if the door remains safely supported, and confirm the door closes smoothly before changing the seal.

   Expected result: The door now sits snugly against its stops, or it still rubs, binds, sits out of square, or needs excessive force to latch.

   Next step: If the door remains out of square or the frame moves, stop and arrange a qualified door or building professional. If fit is sound, measure and replace the worn weatherstrip.

   Why this matters

   Why: DOE's exterior-door job aid places door adjustments before weatherstripping; a seal cannot reliably correct a structurally misfitted door.

3. Check 3

   Inspect the perimeter weatherstripping at the hinge side, latch side, and head of the door. Compare the seal's compression with the jamb and look for missing, torn, flattened, buckled, or incorrectly fitted sections.

   Expected result: The seal is visibly damaged or leaves an even gap when the door is closed, or it contacts the jamb continuously.

   Next step: Measure each side and the top, select a compatible replacement profile for the door, and install it so the door still operates normally.

   Why this matters

   Why: A damaged or poorly fitted moving seal is the direct weatherstripping branch; an intact continuous seal shifts attention to the threshold or frame.

4. Check 4

   Check the bottom edge, sweep, and threshold for daylight, a worn flexible seal, a threshold that no longer meets the door, or an obstruction that prevents the door from closing fully.

   Expected result: The draft is concentrated at the floor and the sweep is missing, damaged, or not contacting the threshold, or the bottom is already sealed.

   Next step: Replace or adjust only the bottom sweep or threshold component specified for the door, then verify smooth closure and a continuous contact line.

   Why this matters

   Why: A door sweep addresses the moving bottom edge; a threshold or floor gap may require a different adjustment or stationary seal.

5. Check 5

   If the leak appears between the jamb and the wall or behind removable trim, identify it as a stationary rough-opening gap. For an accessible, uncomplicated area, use a sealant approach intended for doors and windows; do not force backer rod or foam against the frame.

   Expected result: The gap is wider or hidden behind trim, the frame bends when material is inserted, or the home has complex trim or old painted surfaces.

   Next step: Use a qualified professional for difficult trim, moving frames, suspected lead paint, or any gap that cannot be sealed without disturbing the door's operation.

   Why this matters

   Why: Stationary framing gaps need caulk, backer rod, or suitable low-expansion foam rather than perimeter weatherstripping; force or complex trim can damage the fit.

6. Check 6

   After fitting a new weatherstrip or sweep, close and latch the door several times, checking for continuous contact, a working latch, and smooth operation without excessive force.

   Expected result: The draft is gone and the door operates normally, or the seal buckles, leaves a gap, prevents latching, or creates a new binding point.

   Next step: Adjust or refit the seal according to its manufacturer's instructions. If proper contact and normal operation cannot coexist, stop and arrange professional adjustment.

   Why this matters

   Why: DOE's desired outcome is reduced air infiltration while maintaining or improving door operation; a seal that impedes movement is not correctly fitted.

7. Check 7

   Recheck the marked leak points on a windy day or with a suitable non-flame smoke check, and consider a professional blower-door assessment if the draft remains difficult to locate.

   Expected result: Air still moves around the door after the visible seal is corrected, or multiple doors and windows show similar leakage.

   Next step: Arrange a qualified home-energy or door professional to locate and prioritize the remaining leaks; do not keep adding layers of weatherstrip that make the door bind.

   Why this matters

   Why: The remaining leak may be behind the trim or part of a larger building-envelope problem rather than one replaceable strip.