Faucet dripping: What to Check and What to Do Next

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Locate the first wet spot

   Dry the spout, handle, faucet base, and the supply connections under the sink with a towel, then leave the handle closed and watch for the first new drop.

   Expected result: Water forms at the spout outlet, around the handle, at the base, or at a supply connection.

   Stop if: Stop and arrange professional help if the wet spot is inside a wall, the faucet body is cracked, or a supply connection cannot be isolated without water continuing to run.

   Why this matters

   Why: A spout drip puts the internal valve or its sealing surfaces first on the list. A handle or base leak suggests an O-ring, cartridge seal, retaining area, or faucet-body joint. A supply-connection leak is downstream of the faucet valve and should be handled at the connection rather than by buying a cartridge.

2. Check whether the valve actually closes

   Close the handle normally without forcing it, then wait briefly and check whether the spout continues to drip; on a two-handle faucet, test each handle separately.

   Expected result: The drip stops, slows, or continues at the same rate; one handle may change the drip while the other does not.

   Next step: If the spout stays dry after normal shutoff, monitor the base and connections instead; the visible leak may be external rather than a valve that is passing water.

   Stop if: If water continues from the spout, continue to the shutoff and identification checks before opening the faucet.

   Why this matters

   Why: A continuing spout drip after normal shutoff makes a worn or dirty valve cartridge, stem, washer, or seat more likely. If the drip changes when one handle is moved, diagnose that handle's valve first. A handle that will not close or feels stripped is a handle/valve problem, not a reason to overtighten it.

3. Shut off and verify the water

   Close both hot and cold faucet supply valves under the sink, or use the applicable access-panel valves; open the faucet to release pressure and confirm that flow has stopped before removing a handle.

   Expected result: No water flows, a small amount drains and then stops, or water continues to run.

   Next step: If water is fully off, cover the drain and photograph the handle, retaining nut or clip, and any visible brand mark before disassembly.

   Stop if: If water cannot be stopped locally, close the main water shutoff only if you can identify it safely, or call a plumber before disassembly.

   Why this matters

   Why: No flow means the faucet is isolated for a low-risk inspection. A brief drain-down is expected. Continued flow means a local valve is not closed, the wrong valves were selected, or the faucet has no accessible local shutoffs; do not loosen the cartridge or retaining nut in that state.

4. Identify the valve before choosing a part

   With the water isolated, remove only the handle cover and handle fastener that your faucet design exposes, then record the faucet brand/model and compare the visible cartridge, stem, clip, retaining nut, and seal arrangement with the manufacturer's parts diagram.

   Expected result: The model and valve style are identifiable, or the part is unmarked, stuck, corroded, or different from the available diagrams.

   Stop if: Do not pry against the faucet body, drill a retaining fastener, or keep applying force to a seized cartridge; stop and call a plumber when removal could damage the valve body or countertop.

   Why this matters

   Why: A confirmed model and matching parts diagram support a model-specific cartridge, repair kit, or O-ring choice. An unmarked or stuck part should be taken to a plumbing-supply counter for identification rather than replaced with a visually similar generic. If corrosion prevents safe removal, the faucet may need extraction or replacement by a professional.