Sink has no water: separate a closed supply from a faucet blockage

Use only checks that match the exact appliance or system and its official guide.

1. Check 1

   Open the sink handle normally and observe whether no water comes from both hot and cold positions, only one side, or the faucet outlet is restricted. Check one other nearby fixture without changing plumbing connections.

   Expected result: Both sides are dry, only hot or cold is dry, flow is weak rather than absent, or other fixtures are also without water.

   Next step: Record the pattern and continue with the matching safe observation. If the whole property or multiple fixtures are affected, check the building or main supply status and arrange plumbing help if it does not return.

   Stop if: Stop for spraying water, flooding, sewage-like water, a leak near electricity, or a handle or valve that requires force.

   Why this matters

   Why: Both sides absent at one faucet keeps the faucet, outlet, supply valves, and hoses in scope. One-sided loss narrows the visible supply path, while several dry fixtures suggest an upstream supply issue. Weak flow can be a restriction rather than a complete shutoff.

2. Check 2

   Confirm the handle is in the open position and look under the sink to see whether the hot and cold supply stop valves are visibly open. Do not force or remove a valve.

   Expected result: A handle is closed, a supply stop is visibly closed or partly closed, both stops appear open, or a stop is corroded or stuck.

   Next step: If a valve is clearly accessible and turns normally, open it gradually and check for leaks. If it will not turn, leaks, or flow remains absent, leave it alone and call a plumber.

   Stop if: Stop for a seized valve, active leak, split fitting, severe corrosion, or water reaching electrical equipment.

   Why this matters

   Why: A closed handle or supply stop can fully interrupt flow. Open-looking stops do not prove that the valve passes water, and a corroded or stuck stop can fail when operated.

3. Check 3

   Observe the visible hot and cold hoses from the cabinet opening for sharp kinks, crushing, pinching, or a wet connection. Do not pull the cabinet or disconnect a hose.

   Expected result: A hose is kinked or crushed, a connection is wet, both hoses look clear, or the rear connection cannot be seen safely.

   Next step: If a hose is plainly displaced and can be eased without moving the faucet or connection, correct only that obstruction and check once. For wet, damaged, or inaccessible connections, stop use and arrange a plumber.

   Stop if: Stop for spraying water, a bulging or split hose, a corroded connection, an unstable sink, or any need to loosen a fitting.

   Why this matters

   Why: A kinked supply hose can restrict or stop water to the faucet. A wet connection is a pressurized leak and needs isolation and repair, not an outlet cleaning. A clear visible hose does not rule out an internal valve or supply problem.

4. Check 4

   If the faucet has an accessible aerator or sprayhead and there is no leak or electronic hazard, observe whether the outlet screen is visibly scaled or blocked. Do not disassemble a pull-out hose or outlet unless the exact faucet instructions are available.

   Expected result: The outlet screen appears obstructed, the faucet has weak flow from both sides, the faucet has no removable outlet, or flow remains absent after a safe outlet check.

   Next step: Clean only the accessible outlet according to the faucet instructions, then check once. If there is still no flow, identify the model and arrange service rather than disconnecting hoses or opening the valve.

   Stop if: Stop for a seized outlet, damaged threads, leaking hose, electronic sensor wiring, or any need to use force.

   Why this matters

   Why: Mineral or debris buildup can restrict flow at an aerator or sprayhead. If flow is absent before the outlet or does not improve after an appropriate cleaning, the cartridge, valve, supply, or control remains in scope.

5. Check 5

   For a touchless or electronic faucet, observe whether the sensor indicator responds and whether the handle is open, without wetting or opening the control box or touching wiring.

   Expected result: The sensor responds, the indicator is dark, the handle is closed, the supply stops are open, or water remains absent with normal sensor response.

   Next step: Follow only the exact model's external sensor or battery guidance. If the sensor or control still fails, or water does not return, arrange service without opening the electronics or faucet body.

   Stop if: Stop for water near powered components, damaged wiring, a wet control box, or any need to remove the faucet or electronics.

   Why this matters

   Why: Kohler's touchless guidance separates handle position, sensor activation, and open supply stops. A dark or unresponsive sensor adds a power, battery, or control path; normal sensor response with no water keeps the plumbing supply and valve in scope.

6. Check 6

   After the sink is dry and no connection has been disturbed, observe whether water returns later and whether other fixtures have normal flow. Record recent installation, shutoff, water outage, or plumbing work.

   Expected result: Water returns without a change, the whole home has low or no supply, only the sink remains dry, or the timing is unknown.

   Next step: Give the timing and fixture comparison to a plumber. Do not keep cycling a dry faucet, bypass a valve, or select a cartridge without exact model and diagnostic confirmation.

   Stop if: Stop for flooding, an inaccessible main valve, water damage, or any need to cut into a wall or disconnect piping.

   Why this matters

   Why: Property-wide loss points upstream of the faucet, while an isolated persistent loss keeps the faucet, valves, hoses, or cartridge in scope. A timing link to recent work raises the possibility of debris, a closed valve, or an installation issue.